Online Dog Training Instruction Services in Jeffersonville, IN

The answer to that question is yes! Every single little furbaby is different. Each one has a different type of coat and different types of skin. If your dog has noticeably dry skin, and you bathe him often, then you might be bathing too often or with shampoo that is too harsh.

Try bathing a little less often and use an oatmeal shampoo or even baby shampoo because it is very mild and also tearless. If your dog is excessively greasy, then contrary to popular belief, you could still be bathing too often. When the dog's skin is very dry, the body will try to over compensate and the hair ends up greasy. In this case, also try an oatmeal or baby shampoo, and bathe just a little less often.

Stay tuned! Next month we discuss anal glands! Wahoo!

ADVISOR DONNA RICHARDSON (PET NUTRITIONIST) — We get lots of questions regarding rotating your dog's diet.

There are many "ways" and reasons to rotate your food, and guess what? Many are correct.

For a normal, healthy adult pet, we suggest feeding it food that has multiple meat proteins. If you feed a single source of protein, you can actually rotate daily, weekly, monthly, etc. Many suggest staying within the same brand of food because of the quality of ingredients used by a particular company. Chicken, for example, is not just chicken. Does the company use chicken by-products (not recommended), chicken meal, organic chicken, etc.?

The quality of the ingredients also bears consideration. And for those who feed raw, the same holds true. You still need to rotate the source of meat protein from time to time.

One way to think about rotation is this: During the hot summer months, we like to eat lighter, easy-to-digest foods like fish, turkey, and the like. Then, in winter months, we tend to gravitate toward heavier foods, such as pot roasts, chili, etc. So, for your dogs, think about lighter, easier-to-digest meats like turkey, chicken, and fish-based foods. Then, in winter months, move to the heavier foods, like the red meat foods.

Check out the new products from Champion Pet Foods. DogStar Kitchen is now up and running in Auburn, KY. We are proud they chose Kentucky to be their first home in the U.S.

ADVISOR DONNA RICHARDSON (PET NUTRITIONIST) — When selecting the best food for our pets, we often become consumed with ingredients. The food must be grain-free and not contain this and that, which is fine. However, as mentioned so many times in the past, not all grain-free foods are created equal.

A food can be grain-free but far from low in carbohydrates. Just because it is grain-free does not mean it is low in carbs.

I am sharing two pictures of one of our actual customers. This dog was presented to us with severe skin and ear issues. The dog had been tested for allergies and did not test positive for any food allergies. The first photo was taken on a Sunday—the day the owner began the food transition. The dog was on a kibble from a big box store and taking two over-the-counter antihistamines daily.

We switched his food, the owner stopped the antihistamines, and the second photo was taken five days later, showing amazing results.

The lesson here is that all food-related issues are not necessarily food allergies or intolerances. Very few pet food manufacturers will actually list the percentage of carbohydrates in their foods. The purpose of a grain-free diet should be to lower the intake of carbs.

ADVISOR TAMMY NEELY — The simple answer is as often as you'd like. There are some things to consider, however, when you do so.

First and most important is the quality of the products you use. Using good, quality shampoos and skin conditioners are key. All shampoos are made to remove dirt, grim, and oils, but just washing alone can leave your dog's skin dry and irritated — especially when using a harsher flea or deodorizing shampoo.

Those types of products should only be used when absolutely necessary. If you do typically use the harsher products, more than likely there's a bigger problem and I recommend that you take your pet to a Vet in the near future.

For basic bathing on a 2-3 times per week schedule, I suggest a tearless shampoo diluted with water on a 1:1 ratio. And there's no need to repeat it since you bathe so often. Always be sure to rinse thoroughly.

A re-moisturizing oatmeal coat conditioner (also diluted 1:1) should be applied next. Saturate the skin completely and give the product time to work. In other words, let your dog "marinade" for at least 3-5 minutes. Then rinse, and you're finished!

TIP: For longer-haired dogs, do not rub them dry with a towel, as doing so creates tangles. Instead, lay the towel over your dog and gently squeeze the water out.

Nutrition is complicated, interesting, and important. It's also up there with religion and politics on the list of topics to avoid in mixed company. Folks get really worked up about pet food. But I'm going to attempt to deflate the whole issue with a simple observation:

I see hundreds of pets on all sorts of commercial diets every year, and most of them are doing just fine nutritionally.

I'd never recommend Kibbles-and-Bits to anyone, but I've seen plenty of dogs on a steady diet of it that are mostly healthy (though they are more prone to food-amplified tissue syndrome, or FAT). Now, of course, a well-chosen diet can have health benefits, so it's worth putting some thought (and maybe a little extra money) into. Reasonable expectations include a healthier skin and coat and maybe even feeling a bit better in general – anyone who's ever been a college student subsisting on ramen noodles can attest to that. But losing sleep over which diet is best for your pet is also unlikely to result in an extra ten years of life, seeing them graduate college or gain superpowers

Below are fourteen facts that will help you make more informed decisions about feeding your pet, followed by my standard answer to the title question – what should you feed your pet?

1. Avoid anything with food coloring. Pets do not care if kibble is red or green. Dogs can hardly tell the difference anyway.

2. Look for AAFCO statements that indicate feeding trials were done on the food rather than just meeting formulation requirements. While such trials have a lot of limitations, they do indicate the company devoted significant resources to evaluate their formulation in real animals.

3. Also, if buying adult food, make sure the AAFCO statement indicates it is for adults, not all life stages. The latter means it's appropriate for puppies/kittens, meaning it's more nutritionally dense and thus more likely to lead to obesity.

4. If your pet is overweight (and 50% of them are), look for something labeled LIGHT or LITE. These are the only terms that have set definitions and calorie requirements. You can put a cheeseburger in a bag and call it Weight Management, Healthy Weight, etc.

5. Do not try any sort of homemade diet, raw or otherwise, without the guidance of a boarded Veterinary Nutritionist. Studies have shown that this almost always results in a nutritionally deficient diet, and this is NOT Dr. Google's area of expertise!

6. Most of the terms tossed around to get you excited about foods have absolutely no meaning. Holistic, select, premium, even human-grade – these have no legal definition. I could produce terrible quality food, label it Dr. Rowland's Vet Approved Super Premium Holistic Select, charge $100 a bag, and smile all the while.

7. Organic and Natural do have legal definitions. However, there is no evidence that meeting those definitions will make a difference to your pet's health. This does denote more expensive ingredients – which may be more nutritious but are likewise not guaranteed to be.

8. Ninety-nine percent of the research about pet nutrition is done by major companies (Hill's, Purina, Iams, etc.). Purina spent 15 years (and likely millions of dollars) proving the association between obesity and reduced lifespan. Hill's does an incredible amount of research into the specific nutritional needs of both healthy and ill pets. Say what you will about these Big Food Companies; we owe most of what we know about pet nutrition to them.

9. Pet food is big money (think billions annually). And if you are selling food, you make a lot more money if pets stay healthy and keep eating. Conversely, if anything bad happens to your consumer (pets) that can be remotely linked to your product, you lose a lot of money. More money than you're likely to save putting anything in it that you aren't 99.9% certain is safe and nutritious.

10. Larger companies also have more resources for quality control and testing. This doesn't mean they are perfect or that others aren't good. It does mean they are generally a safe bet.

11. Grains and corn are not inherently bad for dogs, nor is a diet without them more "natural." I'm fond of reminding people that your pug is not a wolf. There are certain dogs who do better on a "grain-free" diet, however, just like some people do. Even still, it's a fallacy to attribute the improvement to a lack of grains. Most of these have limited and more novel ingredients in general, meaning that another non-grain ingredient in their previous diet is just as likely to have been the problem.

12. The most expensive thing out there is not necessarily the best.

13. However, the cheapest thing almost never is (those are life lessons that don't just apply to pet food).

14. Lastly, don't try to fix what isn't broken. If your pet is energetic, healthy, and at an optimum weight, you don't need anyone talking (or scaring) you into changing their diet.

Following these facts, my standard dietary recommendation is to choose a diet from a larger, well-known, and well-established brand in the upper-moderate cost category. It may not be the "perfect" diet, and it is entirely possible there is something "better" out there – but without stressing out, this will pretty much guarantee you are feeding your pet something nutritionally complete and safe. Over the following months, we plan to go into more depth on some specifics of pet nutrition to help you better understand how to evaluate different diets, but I have absolutely no reservations about making the above recommendation to 99% of pets.

Be Prepared!

A quality pair of trimmers that not only fit your hand, but also fit your dog's size, is essential. If you're not comfortable handling the trimmers, it will make the task stressful for both you and your dog.

I prefer the scissor-style trimmers because they allow free movement and won't crush the dog's nails. Be sure to also pick up a jar of styptic powder when purchasing nail trimmers—it will come in handy to help stop the bleeding if you accidentally cut to the quick. Don't worry if it happens; we all do it now and then! A small hydrogen-peroxide spray bottle is also handy to help remove stains.

Be Careful But Committed!

Once you've determined where to cut the nail, do not hesitate to make the cut quickly.

White nails are fairly easy to trim. The goal is to cut as close to the pink nail vein as possible without actually cutting into the vein itself. But again, don't worry if you do nip too close because we have the styptic powder ready, just in case. Black nails are a little trickier since you can't see where the vein begins. In this case, I recommend making incremental cuts and stopping when a black dot is visible from the underside of the nail.

Bonus Tip

Your dog's nails will be sharp after a trim. A simple emery board nail file is perfect for smoothing the edges. I prefer a rechargeable battery-powered Dremel tool with a grinding attachment. A model with two-speed settings is perfect. They allow you to grind the nails down smoothly without cutting them quickly.

You are probably shaking your head and wondering what in the world your pet's food could possibly have to do with flea prevention. There are a few times that the subject of the "immune system" has not been mentioned in previous articles.

Have you ever noticed that in some kennel situations, there are some dogs with fleas and some without? Ever wonder why? You guessed it, IMMUNE SYSTEM.

Fleas are bloodsucking parasites and go after the weakest victims. For every flea you see on your pet, there are many more in the environment.

Effective flea control should include these three things: Topical products for your pet, such as PetLock Plus. Every flea in the environment has to crawl on the pet in order for these products to be effective. Making sure your pet is on the best food possible will help him have a stronger immune system.

Treating your home with sprays, room foggers, or even food-grade diatomaceous earth will help rid the environment of external parasites.

Don't forget to treat the yard. There are several sprays, food-grade diatomaceous earth, and other things available for the yard. Use caution; however, some of the flea products will also kill bees.

Be persistent with your efforts, and don't get discouraged. Flea eggs hatch out about every 30 days. So, treatments need to be repeated on a monthly basis.

A hard freeze is good for the fleas in the yard, but as long as the dog is coming into the house, the fleas will thrive indoors where it is warm.

We use a product called Flee Flea Flee, made by "Healthy Dogma" on our dogs. It is very effective as a repellent. It does not kill fleas, but makes the dog a lot less appealing.

ADVISOR DONNA RICHARDSON (PET NUTRITIONIST) - The arrival of spring for many humans and pets alike brings on the challenge of seasonal allergies.

We deal with food trials for suspected food allergies year-round.

What are some things you can do for your pet if you suspect seasonal allergies? Those of you who have talked to me about pet nutrition continue to hear the phrase, "BOOST THAT IMMUNE SYSTEM!" Sometimes, pets are allergic to things we can't control. Giving a boost to the immune system will help the pet's natural ability to fight allergies.

Your veterinarian will have several things that should help with seasonal allergies. But what can you do to enhance your veterinarian's treatment?

First of all, proper nutrition. You are what you eat. So is your pet.

Secondly, we like to supplement good nutrition with raw goat's milk. Here are some reasons why:

• Boosts the immune system
• Natural antihistamine
• Helps establish healthy flora in the skin and ears, which will help curb any infections related to allergies
• Natural probiotic-helps your pet absorb more nutrients from his food
• Additional source of moisture when added to kibble or given as a special treat

My dog is a constant itching and scratching machine. How much of a role does diet play in this sort of behavior?

Donna Richardson's response: Sorry you are having problems with your dog. I am going to assume you have done a little detective work, and your dog does not have fleas. You could also be dealing with something seasonal or environmental. But diet can and often does play a huge role in these itchy, scratching dogs.

Food trials can be frustrating and can take from several weeks to a few months. We work with each dog as an individual, because they are all different, and can suffer from varying degrees of the same issue. In other words, what worked for your friend's dog might not work for yours.

Without more of a history on your dog, I would make the following recommendations:

First of all, supplement his diet with raw goat's milk. It acts as a natural antihistamine. It also contains caprylic acid, which is known for its ability to fight yeast. Fermented milk is also a preferred way to deliver probiotics.

We need to discuss your dog's current diet and overall general health. We might try a novel protein source in the form of a limited-ingredient kibble or a balanced raw diet. Sometimes, eliminating grains from the diet will help tremendously. Also, bolster that immune system!

I would be happy to schedule an appointment to have you come out and go over some options for your dog. A good nutritional plan for your dog will not replace your veterinarian but will certainly make his or her work a lot easier.

Best of luck!

Donna

By: DONNA RICHARDSON — In this month's article, I would like to leave you with some questions that will lead you to some ANSWERS regarding your pet's nutrition.

In previous articles, we have discussed feeding kibble, raw, kibble supplemented with raw, etc. etc. This month, I would like for you to think about the benefits of supplementing your pet's food with raw goat's milk. We have previously mentioned supplementing your pet's kibble with raw in order to add more moisture and offer additional meat protein sources.

I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Jacqueline Hill of Answers Pet Food (http://answerspetfood.com). Jackie is a wealth of information. She is a microbiologist and nutritionist, as well as a huge pet lover. Jackie and ANSWERS have taken pet nutrition "out of the box," and in doing so, they have enhanced the lives of many pets.

Raw goat's milk is known in nutritional circles as "white blood." Most mammals, even chickens, will reap the benefits of consuming raw goat's milk.

It contains a natural antihistamine that will even help with seasonal allergies.

It is an excellent tool to offer additional moisture to your pet's diet.

The healing properties of raw goat's milk will help heal the gut and maintain healthy gut health. Did you know that the gut regulates 90 percent of the immune system?

What about that salad you just ate that had been sprayed with what? And had been grown using what as fertilizer?

What agency governs raw meat sold for human consumption? What agency governs raw meat sold for raw pet food? The same agency? Same standards? Nope! Raw pet food is sold with the intention of being fed raw to our pets. Meat sold for human consumption is sold with the idea that humans cook their meat.

Always use safe handling practices when handling all foods — human, pet, raw, kibble, etc. Clean your sinks, countertops, pet food dishes, utensils, etc., just as you would when preparing human meals.

BY DONNA RICHARDSON, PET NUTRITIONIST — I want to take this opportunity to thank each and every one of you for your support this past year. We have enjoyed being a part of White Fang Ventures and are looking forward to what 2015 has to offer.

In reviewing the highlights of 2014, a common denominator has been and will continue to be the support of the immune system. There cannot be enough emphasis placed on maintaining a strong immune system. Lots of serious health issues stem from a weakened immune system.

To get Fido through the hustle and bustle of the holidays, please remember to maintain a proper diet and exercise for your dogs. It is very easy to get caught up in the moment and forget to take that walk. It is very difficult not to cave into the eyes of the hungry beggar.

Sometimes, we have to remind guests not to slip bites of goodies here and there. There are several things, such as chocolate, grapes, onions, etc., that should not be given to dogs. Also, avoid fatty foods. We are fine with giving our dogs raw marrow bones. But never cooked bones.

Perhaps my next article will include weight loss tips for your pets. Once again, thank you for allowing us to be part of your "pet family."

For more information, feel free to visit our website at www.RichardsonsFeedAndPets.com.

Have a safe and wonderful holiday season.

Donna

DONNA RICHARDSON, PET NUTRITIONIST — In keeping with the season, I thought this would be a great time to remind everyone of the health benefits of pumpkin for our pets.

Pumpkin (just plain pumpkin, NOT the spiced kind ready for pies) is very good for digestive and urinary health. It's also good for your pet's immune system.

Among other things, pumpkin is a great source of fiber.

Here are some suggested ways to use pumpkins:

• Stuff canned pumpkin in a raw marrow bone or kong
• To help slow down loose stool, give a small amount of pumpkin
• If your pet is truly constipated, more pumpkins will help get things moving again.
• To help with weight loss, substitute a small amount of kibble with pumpkin
• Make your own "popsicles" by freezing canned pumpkin in ice trays

Please contact your veterinarian if symptoms of constipation or diarrhea persist. It is possible for a dog to appear to be constipated when he has actually had diarrhea.

Dr. Harold R. Gough, DVM, has been serving Clarksville, Ind., and the surrounding area since May 1978, when he opened the Clarksville Animal Clinic on Eastern Boulevard. A graduate of the Purdue University College of Veterinary Medicine in '76, Dr. Gough has spent more than 30 years in the veterinary field.

Dr. Gough began as a solo practitioner at his clinic with no client base. He and his wife, Karen, worked the business for the first two years while growing it.

"My practice has continued to grow well after all these years due to all the wonderful customers and their pets," Dr. Gough said. "At times, I am now seeing grandchildren of some of my first customers."

When asked which dog breed Dr. Gough enjoys seeing the most at his shop, he replied: "As a Veterinarian, I like and enjoy seeing all breeds. I, like anyone, have my favorites, which are the French Bulldog, Boston Terrier, Irish Wolfhound, and Cairn Terrier. I also appreciate German Shepherds and Malinois due to my association with all the police departments."

His passion for the care and well-being of animals has earned him a loyal customer base and recognition by the city of Clarksville, naming June 2, 2007, as Dr. Gough Day for his professionalism in taking care of the city's Police Dogs.

Because he is a general practitioner, Dr. Gough consequently provides a variety of jobs, including routine care, many types of surgery, and trauma cases (such as being hit by vehicles, abscesses, and lacerations).

Dr. Gough, who was born and raised in Connersville, Ind., owns a French Bulldog named Emma and a cat named Lilly.

Dr. Gough will periodically provide important pieces of information from a professional vet perspective on the White Fang Ventures website. His experience and keen insights will prove invaluable for our members and web visitors. Visit his website at ClarksvilleAnimalHosp.com.

Confinement: What a relief!

Can you imagine owning a horse without a barn or corral? How about a turtle without a terrarium? Better yet, visualize raising a child without a crib, a playpen, baby gates, or a car seat. Most people accept the rationale of proper confinement in these cases. However, there are countless dog owners who don't acknowledge the same advantages to confining their canine family members. In fact, a true aversion to canine confinement exists in many households.

After 31 years in the dog training business, I still find that mindset hard to explain. I would speculate, based on thousands of client comments, that the aversion to confining the family dog stems from an anthropomorphic empathy that's compounded by an owner's view of their pet as an innocent free spirit. It's relatively easy to comprehend how someone could imagine being confined like their dog (anthropomorphizing) or attribute a spritely aspect to their life-loving companion.

For me, the challenge in appreciating this view (besides the fact that it's irrational) is that it usually applies only to Canis familiaris — and not to a spouse in a cubical, a baby in a crib, or a horse in a stall. One must keep in mind those of you who are reading this book and are engaged in training can boast, all things considered, crates and pens included, that your dog lives better than most people in the world when comparing housing, health care, and diet. So don't let guilt get in the way of responsible confinement. The benefits of psychological calming, training success, and neighbor harmony far outweigh any negatives that could stem from comfortable canine containment.

No matter how well-trained my dogs become, I regularly make use of indoor crates and outdoor pens. My companions are much too valuable to me to head out on the road without having them secured in their crates in the back of my truck. I would love to be able to spend all day, every day, outside with my dogs burning up energy, but that's not possible.

I have to spend the lion's share of my waking hours taking care of duties just like you. So whenever possible, I'll put my two German Shepherds outside in their pens to enjoy the fresh air like I wish I could. When I have gatherings at my home, there will be, on regular occasions, someone who's uncomfortable around my formidable dogs. As a courtesy to them, I will tuck my companions into their comfortable condos (crates with bedding and chewing bone) until the situation changes.

Sometimes, I put my dogs away for their own sake (e.g., a house full of young ones wearing my four-legged monsters out with "bring this" and "catch that"). I will iterate here: without proper confinement for your dog, complete training success is almost out of reach. Don't forget that. We'll exit this topic with two new mantras, "containment is good" and "Structure is healthful."

Matthew

CONTRIBUTED BY: Cathy Cantu — There are as many different opinions on this matter as there are dog trainers. However, here are some considerations to help you determine the type of crate your dog will need.

Size of the dog at maturity — Giant breeds limit the type of crate you can get. For instance, if you are housing an Irish wolfhound or an English mastiff, you may be restricted to a large metal cage-style crate since it is difficult to find crates of other materials large enough to accommodate larger breeds. 

The temperament of your dog — If you have a feisty dog who detests confinement, then the security of the plastic Vari-Kennel-style crate will be safer than the metal cage-style crates. If you have a laid-back dog, then security might not be as concerning. Therefore, the metal cage-style crate will probably do just fine. The safety issue with the metal cages is the flexibility of the cage door. A very determined dog can bend the cage door at the corner and conceivably get his head stuck during an escape attempt.

Travel — If your concern is keeping your dog safe in a collision, then a plastic Vari-Kennel or a more sturdy aluminum/steel box-style crate will be safer, i.e., prevent your dog from being ejected. If you travel with your dog in the bed of a truck, then you will need to consider the sun. Metal cage-style crates may keep your dog in the vehicle, but they don't protect your dog from the elements. Also, consider that the metal or plastic tray at the bottom of the crate is heating up and could potentially burn your dog's paws and belly. Plastic Vari-Kennel-style crates are the best option in this application.

Coziness — The closed-sided plastic Vari-Kennel crates and the metal box-style crates are more den-like than the metal cage-style crates. However, you can alleviate this by also purchasing a crate cover to create the den-like experience, provided (of course) your dog doesn't pull the fabric through the crate.

Cost — Crates can range anywhere from $30-$1,500, depending on the size and the material. Metal cage-style crates will be the least expensive, with the plastic Vari-Kennel-style crates being mid-range and the aluminum or steel box-style crates being at the upper end of the cost spectrum.

Side Note: Mesh crates are a convenient option for easily contained dogs, but they are very easy to escape from and should never be considered a primary containment device. For instance, don't leave your dog in the bed of your truck in one of these crates. If an unforeseen panicky situation arose, your dog could easily escape and be on his own.